Last day at Disneyland - a first hand account of
the end of the iconic climb
While Right to Climb could not attend the end of climbing at Ayers Rock
last week we received the following firsthand account of how the day panned out
from veteran climber Gerry Krieg. It seems Gerry has the honour of being the
very last paying guest to head up the Rock. The behaviour of Parks officials in
attempting to censor and control the flow of information as he came down offers a glimpse into
the workings of a new police state now operating at the Park. That they were
aided and abetted by a passive media mob says much about the state of the press
in the country. Why would government need to censor them when they happily
censor themselves? With a vision of tourism this dark how long will what is
left of “Disneyland” survive?
FINAL DAY AT ULURU / AYERS ROCK - the secret business
THE MORNING 25 Oct 2019
Given what later occurred it is worthy to record some context from
earlier in the day.
With a companion and some 15 others I arrived at 8am at the assigned
starting point for the free, ranger led, 'mala' walking tour. This was
almost adjacent to the commencement of the climb, which wasn't opening due to
high winds until at least the next assessment of conditions at 10 am.
After some ten minutes a female ranger came to commence the tour. She was
to be the ranger most involved in 'the incident' later.
After preliminaries, she asked 'what the Mala is'.
There was a pause before my companion offered an answer akin to 'a mythological
being' (ie relating to the 'mala men' we understood to be part of the
indigenous creation stories for Uluru). She retorted 'no, not
mythological … this is a mala' and proceeded to display a photo of the
small marsupial. My (polite) companion was rather taken aback by the
seeming aggressiveness of her reply and whispered 'I now know what words aren't
appropriate!'. Of course this seemed all a bit churlish when the ranger
did indeed later tell the story of the 'ancestral mala men'
who walked up where the climb route is.
At the end of this first station of the tour the ranger asked for any
questions. I could not tell if it was a passer being provocative, or was,
in any case, just innocently being asked, but the first question was 'When is
the climb going to open today?'. To a bit of nervous laughter from the
group she said 'I am not going to answer that' and with obvious annoyance
headed off to the next station without seeking any more questions; I had had
one ready!.
At a further station the ranger announced that it was the point where
she would normally talk about 'the climb', and asked whether we wanted to hear
it as she clearly hoped not to have to deliver it again on this last day.
However we seemingly unanimously asked to hear it. At various points she
got emotional in delivering the Park approved spiel, which included the
portrayal, due to climber behaviour, of an 'out of control' littering spree and
despoiling of environment up and down the Rock. At some point she
uttered something to the effect of 'not shooting the messenger' when it came to
implementing the Park rules regarding the climb - but by this time it was clear
to me that she herself was far less just a messenger, but more like an
impassioned preacher!
At one of the latter stations she said that it was where she talked
about an area she was not very expert in, that being the geology of the area,
and queried whether we wished her to proceed. We asked her to do so,
which I noted in her delivery she said 'supposedly' this and 'supposedly' that
- arguably fair enough given the evolving nature of science, I 'suppose'.
At another station she was asked about whether 'ceremony' was still
undertaken in a particular cave, to which she replied that in deference to
customary lore she couldn't say one way or the other. She was also asked
whether traditional hunting and gathering was undertaken to which she said
'they go to the supermarket like everyone else but do go out more as a festive
occasion'. She explained that the outer communities have modern
communications technologies, facilities, and electrical and other services
infrastructure.
Overall I found this free presentation informative, interesting, and
worthwhile, but which, (as was anticipated), had a strong focus on the various
Aboriginal cultural and mythological aspects. It discussed the 'genuine'
secret and sacred sites long identified around the Rock, (often gender
specific), and explained the applicable photographic bans and restrictions. For
my part I had asked a question or two, but none of any 'provocative' nature as
I didn't feel it necessary and/or polite to cause any upset at that juncture to
our clearly passionate and engaged host.
Near the end of the tour the ranger was checking her phone regularly,
and advised us that unfortunately she had to rush off to attend to 'some
business', about which she was clearly not keen. I followed her back to
the start of the walk, and to the start of the climb, where a large crowd of
media and onlookers had gathered, obviously to see whether the climb would open
at 10am.
With signs of anxiety but dutiful stoicism, she gave climbing safety
instructions, and, ceremoniously by default, unlocked the climbing entrance
gate. This was to the celebration of the long line of climbers who had
waited for hours in the morning sun. There was some audible disquiet from
others, but overall was to the clear interest of all gathered, experiencing the
sense of this historic occasion.
I perceived in her serious manner of delivering and checking climbers,
notwithstanding her obvious disdain in respect of the climb, that
she was emboldened in 'channelling' Aboriginal lore and trying to prevent any
'sorry business' on Anangu land; maybe more particularly on this last day.
After observing the various comings and goings and media activity for a
period we left the area.
GATE CLOSURE AND CLIMB
After touring the nearby Cultural Centre over lunch, and having a
cooling swim back in Yulara, I returned to the scene of the climb, arriving in
a rush at the entrance gate right on 3:57pm. (phew!)
I made my way through the entrance and stood with others up on the Parks
Australia tool box to witness the public and ceremonial proceedings with the
end of the climb. These events with the indigenous representatives being
wheeled out (literally in one case) are well recorded elsewhere. It
included the female ranger from our tour not able to contain a beaming smile,
in performing the highly symbolic closure of the entrance gate, for the last
time, to much cheering and applause, with no noticeable dissent. I listened in
and took photos as best I could.
However, as there was a ranger stationed at the base of the rock I was a
little concerned that he may stop me from ascending if I waited much
longer. So at about 4:10pm I set off up the climb, seemingly to be the
last person publicly to do so.
Gerry setting off for as the last paying guest to climb up Ayers Rock
I passed a few on the way to the summit, and generally observed that
some 30 people were still on the environs of the Rock climb, including 3 or 4
rangers stationed up top to ensure it was cleared by sunset. There was a
bit of friendly banter at the summit about being the last one off, and I note
that in the end a group of 8 apparently stepped off together, presumably soon
after 7pm. For mine, I had planned a rendezvous with my
companion to depart the area at 6pm, so then did this last climb and descent
with some haste.
MY CLIMBING 'INCIDENT'
As I descended the Rock, baked by the afternoon sun, I could clearly see
it was still indeed a hot topic given the still sizeable media contingent and
gathering assembled at the gate area to the climb. With about 50 metres
to descend, I took a moment to take it all in, and made a spur of the minute
decision to make a passive 'protest', but more to honour and more hopefully
promote some discovery of all the good information that Marc Hendrickx had
compiled. Accordingly from my pack I got out his book, 'A Guide to Climbing Ayers Rock', and held it aloft as I slowly descended the
rest of the way, trusting this should readily attract some attention.
I approached the entry gate which I had thought would also be the exit
gate. Immediately to the left of this gate was where most of the media
contingent and others (numbering maybe 20 persons) were gathered in attendance,
and by then focusing television cameras and the like to my antics. I
stopped and held the book up still for them to hopefully focus in on it.
I believe I said something along the lines of 'just some information that may
provide a bit of balance'.
A book with facts that could save Disneyland-can't have that shown!
However, within a second or two the female ranger came over and snatched
the book out of my hands and angrily said something like 'what do you think you
are doing?.. you can't do that'. I looked at her somewhat bemusedly and
said 'it's just a book' with the inference hopefully generally understood to
be, 'why are you confiscating that from me?'.
For some 5 -10 seconds there was a bit of a detente, with her obviously
reluctant to give it back to me, and my fearing she wasn't going to do so, well
not without some (annoying) consultations or discussions with
authorities. It was by then clear that the exit was at another gate to
the left. She returned the book to me, possibly under some subtle
instruction, with rangers probably realizing the confiscation was
'not a good look', and with the implied trust that I was ready to head the exit
way and vacate. She looked still particularly angered and I muse in
reflection whether, besides 'spoiling' the joy of the occasion for her, she
also felt some degree of personal failure knowing I had been on her tour that
morning, heard the cultural learnings and climbing spiel, and yet disrespected
the messages, (so totally in her world view).
I was ushered (not physically) some 10 metres to the left to another
gate, all the while displaying the book as best I could. It was all a bit
chaotic in terms of voices but I saw and heard a youngish Aboriginal lady yell
out 'that book is rubbish' or very similar.
Once at and exiting that gate I was confronted by what felt like a wall
of people, and so I stopped to display the book further. Another
uniformed officer (male) grabbed the book. I believe it did not quite
leave my possession as my hands just turned with his pull sufficient for him to
get a view of the front cover. Once bitten twice shy about letting it go
this time!
THE INTERVIEW
It was at this point that an impromptu 'doorstop' interview with some 10
media or other interested persons occurred (see photo -
including ABC television and radio). This lasted for a few minutes
without interruption from any authorities.
The Interview, Gerry at left
Contained below is an approximate transcription of the interview from my
best recollection. Not being a practiced public speaker,
somewhat surprisingly I think I delivered responses and comment in a fairly
coherent manner:
'Just want to provide some balance to what is going on here.
The book is by a chap who has researched a lot of information about the
climb. There is also a website right to climb blog.org,
I think, which also sets out information.'
A female asked 'Are you the author?'
I said 'no'.
A male journalist, identified later as from Australian Associated Press
(AAP), asked: 'So you would like it if the local people would allow
climbing?'
I said 'that would be nice'
'It's fantastic up there - a great human experience'
At this point I may have mentioned that, from what I saw, any litter
problems up there were seemingly being 'wildly' exaggerated.
A female asked 'I see the book refers to Ayers Rock - what do
you think of using Indigenous naming'
I said, 'I have got no problem with Uluru, and traditional names,
perhaps though "Uluru Rock" makes sense and more what
'Reconciliation' should look like. It's like in New Zealand where Mount
Egmont became Mount Taranaki, rather than just Taranaki. Look I want us
to move forward together but I feel what is going on here is divisive.'
During the above I heard someone comment 'well, climbing is
banned there too' in a manner to hopefully take the wind out of my
sails. (For the record this relates to not standing on the actual summit peak itself, in deference to local Maori sensitivities.)
I continued:
'I was here some 35 years ago and there were sacred and secret sites
around, but not with the climb, up there, or the whole rock. There are
sites up there, cultural sites, rocks and things that indicate that the Anangu
must have climbed too.'
A middle aged lady with aboriginal appearance said 'that was only the
elders'.
I said 'well you can imagine that - you wouldn't want your kids
running around up there' (for safety sake); a sentiment to which she seemed
to concur without further comment.
Around that point I saw my companion 'slinking' (thanks!) off
toward our car and remembered our purpose.
So I said 'Ok I have to go and rush to watch the sunset on Kata
Tjuta. Because that is what we do now.
The ban here is more contrived, more like the Hindmarsh Island
Bridge situation. Thankyou.'
On request I provided my name to the AAP journalist and rushed over to
my companion, and then to our car.
We departed - to see the sun set - of another rock.
________
SECRET BUSINESS?
I have found little coverage of the 'incident', except a brief mention in AAP syndicated papers (regional Australia). It occurred around 6pm (NT
time) so all interstate news feeds would likely have been completed. Next
day it probably didn't have the same currency, which focused, as may be
expected, on the very last group off the rock. And there was clearly less media
in attendance at that time compared with the earlier 4pm gate closing
ceremonies.
But in context we witnessed park authorities restricting photography of
Aboriginals past the entrance gate; notably a few younger aboriginal
males seemingly headed purposefully through the gate toward the climb.
Unfortunately I missed seeing if they actually climbed, or could determine
their purpose, but the presence of possibly dissenting aboriginals (we know there
are) was powerful for mine, but seemingly (deliberately) ignored by the media
there, well those there at that precise moment - did anyone try and interview
them? (no) Then again, from some reports the media were probably under
strict instruction from Parks Australia not to record/use any such images,
unless approved etc. As it is, SBS's National Indigenous TV network complied
with an apparent request to not focus, or show any footage of any of the (evil)
climbers, of those 'last days'. Such a sorry business.
END
_______________
Editor's comment
I requested some information from Park Authorities about the incident and was provided this message from a senior Ranger:Yes, I talked to more people about the book incident. Book was taken first inside the fence and the gentleman told it would be given back when he exited which it was. Then there was an attempted snatch which was what I witnessed. Neither should have happened as it was his personal property and not our place to take it from him.
I told Gerry I thought that he was owed an apology for such awful behaviour and he replied, thinking of the bigger picture,….”We all are”.
End note
I requested photographs and film from various media sources but none so far has assisted. ABC were approached but none of the journalists present have had the courtesy to reply to our polite inquiries. The snippet below is the full extent of media coverage of this troubling incident.
Climber Gerry Krieg attracted some hostility when he held up a book A Guide to Climbing Ayers Rock by geologist Marc Hendrickx, a de facto spokesman for opponents of the ban who has vowed to climb it again.
A female ranger tried to snatch the book out of his hand, accusing him of causing trouble.
The ban was due to a "contrived situation, Mr Krieg said.
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